Day 1
You may be a tourist but that doesn’t mean you have to feel like one. Your Philly home base should be cozy and personal. Choose from Penn’s View Hotel, a quaint inn overlooking the Delaware River, located in the heart of Old City, Washington Square’s Morris House, a historic landmark hotel with a chic new restaurant, or the boutique-style Alexander Inn in Center City. All three include breakfast and wireless Internet access.
Once you’ve stashed your bags and consulted your maps, you’ll be ready to explore the city like a local. First stop is First Friday in Old City. During this monthly party, the area’s galleries open up their doors to the public beginning at 5:00 p.m. and offer free snacks and sips, live music and new installations. You’ll want to explore the area by foot, spending most of your time in the blocks between Chestnut and Race and 3rd and Front Streets, where most of the art action is. There’s always a good party at the Clay Studio, Temple Gallery and the Painted Bride Arts Center, but you may also want to check out the urban-inspired paintings and vinyl toys at Lineage Gallery.
Next up is a jaunt through Midtown Village, the trendier-all-the-time neighborhood that consists of the blocks below Broad Street. Dinner is at Lolita, a contemporary Mexican hotspot that follows a unique style of dining called bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB). At a BYOB restaurant, there is no alcoholic beverages available for purchase, therefore, you can bring your own. Before hitting the restaurant, stop by the Wine & Spirit Store at 1218 Chestnut to pick up some tequila, which you can mix with fresh margarita mix provided by the restaurant. Not feeling spicy? You can opt for delicious light fare and try out a new varietal at Vintage wine bar or chow down on sushi and sake-tinis at 1225 Raw.
Save room, though, because there’s great dessert to be had at Capogiro (artisanal gelato and sorbet made from local ingredients) and Naked Chocolate Café (just about anything you’d need to satisfy even the most intense sweet tooth cravings).
Day 2
Get your day of localness started with breakfast in Bella Vista, a neighborhood that’s pretty much redefined brunch in Philly. Morning Glory Diner’s biscuits and stewed apples are the stuff of foodie legend, while Sabrina’s Café unusual French toast and omelet specials have people clamoring for a table every weekend. If you’re looking for something even more exotic, go south to Carman’s Country Kitchen. This quirky hole-in-the-wall’s gracious hostess and namesake serves up off-road eats like alligator sausage and acorn squash pancakes.
With a full stomach, it will be much easier to browse the Italian Market and not drool over the prosciutto. This historic stretch of 9th Street is packed with outdoor produce stalls, sidewalk tables and full-scale shops. Not to be missed are treasures like Fante’s Cookware, DiBruno Brothers’ cheese and specialty foods, Isgro’s cannolis and Talluto’s fresh pasta. Before you leave, stop into Anthony’s Italian Coffeehouse for a Gilda’s Biscotti (made locally) and a cappuccino to dunk it in.
Next, head north and, if you haven’t realized, Philadelphia does not charge taxes on clothing and shoes so get ready for some shopping in Northern Liberties. Many of the area’s stores are clustered along 2nd and 3rd Streets. You’ll find mid-century furniture at Vintage Modern, high-steppin’ footwear at Cheree Amour, fancy jeans at Denim Society, indie designer clothes and hipster accoutrements at the boutique/salon Closet Fever, Craft Mafia clothing and jewelry at Conspiracy Showroom, funky housewares and gifts at P.A.D. and vintage and retooled threads at Tolou. Further north, in the Liberties Walk complex, are a slew of other spending possibilities: original handmade corsets, clothing and accessories at Delicious Boutique, chic jeans and tops at Zoey Boutique, new and used CDs and DVDs at Think Music, plus treats for your furriest friends at Chic Petique. At Art Star, a hybrid gallery-shop, browse the highbrow crafts, cute sweaters and one-of-a kind art objects, and before you leave the area, stop into the Brown Betty Dessert Boutique for a freshly baked cupcake.
When the stomach rumbles and all the price tags become a dizzying blur, it’s time for a lunch break. Fortunately, there are plenty of options nearby, like Deuce Restaurant and Bar, which has a full menu of sandwiches and salads, Las Cazuelas, a top-rated Mexican restaurant on Girard Avenue, or Honey’s Sit ’n’ Eat, home to Southern Jewish comfort food (imagine the genius combination of latkes and chicken-fried steak).
Spend the rest of your afternoon a few blocks away at Yards Brewery, the city’s oldest brewery facility. Tour the facility and sample the liquid wares — all in the name of authentic Philly living.
For dinner, keep it simple and take a cab to Port Richmond’s famed Tacconelli’s, a BYOB serving what many consider the city’s best pizza. (Tip #1: It’s best to reserve your dough in advance. Tip #2: It’s cash only. Tip #3: Tacs sells pizza and pizza only.) If you’re not in the mood for pizza, get a taste of the neighborhood’s local flavor at New Wave Café, a Polish bar and restaurant that cooks up authentic dishes like pierogi and stuffed cabbage.
After dinner, head back to Fishtown’s buzzing new rock venue Johnny Brenda’s for a few beers and the sounds of local and indie bands and DJs. From there, you can work your way south through Northern Liberties and conduct your own little bar tour. You can’t go wrong at Bar Ferdinand, a tapas location with great cocktails and sangrias, N. 3rd, a cozy neighborhood hangout, and Standard Tap, a pub serving up a long list of local microbrews. If you feel like shooting some pool, ask a local how to get to Ministry of Information, a small local bar with two pool tables and a nostalgically ’90s jukebox. Or, relax at the 700 Club, a living room-like bar with indie and hip-hop DJs.
Day 3
After a long night on the town, there’s just enough time for one last great meal in Philly — this time in University City. The longstanding neighborhood favorite is the White Dog Café, known equally for its social activism and its tasty Bloody Mary — which is the best way we can think of to counteract last night's drinking. Or try an even better insiders’ choice, Rx, a former pharmacy turned bistro that cooks up seasonal meals with ingredients from nearby farms. An omelet with Lancaster eggs and bacon will end your Philly weekend on the perfect note — it doesn’t get any more local than that.