Nine-Mile Canyon is full of mystery, lore and ancient art. Journey through this historic canyon, explore the breathtaking landscape and discover the culture of the Fremont Indians. This 40-mile canyon easily provides a full day of adventure and excitement for all ages.
Several folk stories concerning the name of the canyon have been passed from one generation to the next. One story tells of a family by the name of Miles, living in the canyon during the late 1800s. This family consisted of mom and dad, plus seven daughters, giving the canyon its name Nine Miles. A more reliable story took place in 1869, when John Wesley Powell was leading a government expedition through Utah. During this expedition, the topographer, Mr. Bishop, calculated a nine-mile triangulation drawing, which he named Nine-Mile Creek. The canyon was subsequently called Nine-Mile Canyon, though it’s much longer. The maps presented to Congress by Powell’s expedition have Nine-Mile Creek clearly labeled, giving this story credibility.
The 100 million year-old sandstone cliffs once resided underwater. Through geological activity the water dried up, and Nine-Mile Creek began cutting the canyon seen today. This smooth faced rock became an ideal canvas for prehistoric artists. It’s soft enough for the designer to peck out an image, yet resilient enough to resist erosion. Archeologists who have studied artifacts and evidence in the canyon think a primitive hunting and gathering culture may have lived here as long as 12,000 years ago, but it was the Fremont Indian who settled the canyon about 2,200 years ago that created most of the rock art.
Rock art comes in two varieties – pictographs and petroglyphs. Pictographs are painted designs on rock using colors found naturally in minerals. The Fremont artists used their fingers as well as dog hair or yucca fiber brushes to paint their images. Pictographs can still be found under ledges and in caves, which have protected the art from rain, wind and erosion.
Petroglyphs are designed by actually cutting into rock using natural patina (sometimes called Desert Varnish) has made the rock darker than surrounding rock, giving it a bolder contrast. Both types of rock art are found in Nine-Mile Canyon.
The rock art depicts both humans and animals. The Fremont figures have horns and trapezoidal-shaped bodies. Often they have elaborations such as necklaces, earrings, shields, swords, loincloths and headdresses. There are many designs and drawings left by this culture that have never been explained. Some people believe it was a means of communication or record keeping, while others believe it was their religion. Whatever the explanation, there is no denying the power and beauty of the carvings.
Aside from the ancient art, points of interest are noted at mile-marker signs along the canyon road, helping to explain the canyon history. One of the markers tells a story of a young Military Academy graduate who built “West Point” in the 1890’s to keep the Ute Indians within reservation boundaries. Find out how this business venture became a wild-goose-chase when you’re on the trail.
Since the Fremont culture, the canyon has never been settled long-term due to the lack of fresh water. In 1891, Owen Smith wanted to establish an “oasis.” He dug 185 feet into the dusty earth, struck water, and established “The Wells.” Unfortunately the water was brackish and not good for human consumption. He was able to use it for watering livestock and doing laundry, and it never went dry. In 1907 he started charging a fee to water horses, cattle and sheep. However, no fee was ever charged to water dogs. Being a dog lover, Smith describes “Dogs Drink Free” in bold letters at the bottom of the well’s sign.
Visitors today can follow the signs, landmarks and see historic buildings for themselves. This canyon is one of the few locations where guests can examine rock art up close, or see the remains of wagons and pioneer settlements. Be prepared with water, food and a full tank of gas as there are no services within the canyon. Spend a day exploring a land that offers solitude, peace and tranquility. Starting from Myton, travel west on Highway 40 for 1.6 miles. Exit onto the first paved road to your left and go .3 miles. You will notice a Back Country Byway sign and information kiosk. You are on the historic trail headed for Nine-Mile Canyon.