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The sum of Chicago is greater than the Mag Mile and Pizzeria Uno. It's Lincoln Square and Bistro Campagne, Devon Avenue and curry, Maxwell Street Market and tacos -- reasons both edible and entertaining to venture beyond the usual tourist norms into Chicago's 198 neighborhoods. For those who like to sample a city by literally tasting it, Chicago encourages progressive feasting in food-centric enclaves.
Come to West Randolph Street, near downtown in the West Loop when dithering. This restaurant row for the stylish offers more tempting options than you can stomach and is a good place to graze at the restaurants' bars (tables are oft reserved).
Farther west is Wicker Park, a part Hispanic, part Ukrainian, mostly hipster 'hood of gentrifying Victorians, throbbing nightclubs, edgy boutiques, and hip eateries. Troll three blocks in any direction of the Damen/North/Milwaukee intersection for cafés and shops by day; music and meals at Hot Chocolate or Spring by night.
To the far north the former German settlement of Lincoln Square feeds new urbanites a street full of solid eateries from the new Bistro Campagne to the old school Chicago Brauhaus. Farther north yet, Chicago's Indian community inhabits Devon Avenue, a colorful Saturday-afternoon stop for sari shops, Bollywood videos and curries, samosas and nan.
Early Sunday morning make for Maxwell Street Market in Pilsen -- not for the tube socks and hardware of questionable origin, but for the Mexican vendors serving homemade tortillas, tacos, and stews.
Three of Chicago's better known ethnic neighborhoods hunger for attention: Greektown, at night when the Halsted Street strip is lively; Chinatown, by day when both the restaurants and the exotic import shops are open; and Little Italy on Taylor Street, in summer when fans line up for Mario's Italian ice and stroll the old neighborhood in search of dinner.
Buon appetito, early and often.
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